Tuesday, June 26, 2007

full-circle or something like it.


so i guess that, since i started with a road trip, it'd be fitting to end with one, too. which is exactly what i did. last week.
a quick one, yes, but certainly high-end quality. it was incredible seeing friends i hadn't seen in a long time (some in over two years!) and, although it felt a bit odd to be sleeping on the sofa in my own apartment, being back in dc felt a bit like being home again. as close to "my city" as ever, i suppose.

some funny tidbits about being back in the us...
-upon arrival, i became one of those traveller loonies so excited to be re-immersed in her native language that i initiated plenty of absurd and unnecessary conversations with total strangers, just because i could really speak again!
-for the first week or so, i kept reaching for the toilet-side trash bin for my t.p. !!
-not knowing what the heck is in most of my food (not funny, really - a fact of life here and something i, clearly, don't enjoy!)
-PRICES!! i, painfully, have become even cheaper than i was upon leaving for turkey. low lira prices spoiled me, i guess... fall-time city-living might just give me a stroke.
-apparently, when reunited with fellow alanya amazons, ALL i can talk about is turkey. pathetic, really. (sorry friends i excluded..)

home now..


Restless

I can hear in your voice
you were born in one country

and will die in another,

and where you live is where you'll be buried,

and when you dream it's where you were born,


and the moon never hangs in both skies

on the same night,


and that's why you think the moon has a sister,
that's why your day is hostage to your nights,


and that's why you can't sleep except by forgetting,
you can't love except by remembering.


And that's why you're divided: yes and no.
I want to die. I want to live.
Never go away. Leave me alone.

I can hear by what you say
your first words must have been mother and father.

Even before your own name, mother.
Long before
amen, father.

And you put one word in your left shoe,

one in your right, and you go walking.

And when you lie down you tuck them

under your pillow, where they give rise
to other words:
childhood, fate, and rescue.
Heaven, wine, return.

And even
god and death are offspring.
Even world is begotten, even summer
a descendant. And the apple tree. Look and see

the entire lineage alive

in every leaf and branching
decision, snug inside each fast bud,


together in the flower, and again

in the pulp, mingling in the fragrance
of the first mouthful and the last.

I can tell by your silence you've seen the petals

immense in their vanishing.


Flying, they build your only dwelling.

Falling, they sow shadows at your feet.


And when you close your eyes

you can hear the ancient fountains

from which they derive,


rock and water ceaselessly declaring

the laws of coming and going.

(by li-young lee)

Monday, June 04, 2007

solo in cyprus






for explanations, musings, and such go here: http://georgetown.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2067053&l=befd5&id=1405730

Saturday, June 02, 2007

party in the bahçe!

prof. love to dr. kay and scott bey! downtown alanya twinkles behind us as we party in the bahçe...

So for our final goodbye to the Alanya community, we hosted a garden party at the center. The garden, described by Scott Bey as "too much of an old people's garden" proved quite a fabulous, beautiful, and relaxing dinner party venue! We invited our host families and friends from the community, ate, drank, and chatted the night away. A lovely way to sum things up. The photos are pretty cute ...

this night coincided with the night of a biiig soccer match - fener bahçe versus galata saray... and sarah and s.b. happened to be wearing the f.b.'s colors. what a duo.

cem + emine - my host parents and wonderfully kind and fabulous friends

whitney, leslie, and sabahat, looking lovely!


everybody squish together for a group shot! the night was full of oddly-shaped configurations of us in slanted and uneven photographic evidence (what a fully stocked bar will do to an otherwise innocent function...).

Thursday, May 24, 2007

Saying goodbye...and wondering about the future.

The whole gang at our picnic
Last week, we had a wonderful "final class" party with our English students at one of their houses. It was incredible - their Moms had sent in all the best Turkish mezzes and sweets, which we ate outside on the patio overlooking the orange fields, proceeded to jump rope and dance.. We even were given a "hip hop" show from some of the kids, to songs, of course, that (if they understood the lyrics) they shouldn't have been listening to. Saying goodbye, hugging each of them, and realizing the 99% chance that I'll never see any of them again makes me think about where their lives will take them.

Check out this spread! All the kids' Moms sent in a little something. Which required lots of taste-testing different grapeleaves.

I haven’t spoken directly with our students about their hopes for the future. This seems surprising, as I remember constant chatter about “growing up” in elementary school; everyone had “the thing” they wanted to “be.” Even those of us who didn’t know just latched onto one of our friends’ dreams so that we could answer the ill phrased and often asked question, “What do you want to be when you grow up?” A pediatrician, a veterinarian, a marine biologist. Maybe it’s the language barrier, but the children at Kestel don’t seem to talk about future professions.


The teachers posing with our generous hostess

It seems that in their society, intensified by the fact that they come from comparatively low-income backgrounds, there isn’t much potential for them to track the path of their own lives. It’s compulsory that Turkish children attend school through eighth grade – I can only hope that they all will. After, if they choose to go on, they meet the ugly face of the countrywide high school examination. The results of the single exam tell them which high school they are eligible to attend, if they made it into a top school, and whether they earned a funds that would, most likely, enable them to go. If they end up able to attend, in tenth grade they choose one of four “tracks” that will decide their future professions. They choose between “Turkish-Math” (for International Relations, Law, Education, Psychology, Economy, Business Management professions), “Science” (for Engineering, Computer Science, Medicine, and others), “Social Sciences” (History, Geography, and Education), “Sports,” “Fine Arts,” and finally, “Languages.” This structure assumes that, in the tenth grade, at the age of sixteen, a student knows the profession she wants to spend her adolescent life preparing for (look at the Yükseköğretim Kurulu Başkanlığı website for more info).

After high school, if she so chooses, the student takes her High School Finishing Exam, which determines the subjects she can study at particular universities. To an outsider, it’s a strict system of tests and tracks that boxes kids, based on their perceived ability, into “appropriate” professions.

I have talked with students in the midst of preparing for the eighth grade exam who think it’s a pain. They study incessantly for months beforehand and then, finally, everything rides on one day. My host mother, whose son currently takes Saturday classes and tutoring in preparation for the big day, expressed her concerns to me. What if her son feels ill that day? What if he does poorly on the test because he didn’t sleep well and has a headache? The structure doesn’t seem to give students opportunities to prove or redeem themselves. I worry that our students at Kestel will fall into similar traps, to never again get the chance to continue their education.

Through working with them, I have seen that they are extremely bright and motivated students who I can imagine going on to high school and college. I can already envision some of them in high-powered professions – excelling and succeeding in their respective fields. I worry, though, that they may not be granted the chance to get there.

The girls pose for the camera


Besides the system itself, our students are struggling against their socio-economic status. Depending on their family situations and backgrounds, many potential scenarios can stand in the way of staying in school. Their family may need them, once they reach a potentially older working age, to help out in the family business or shop. They may want to attend high school, but not have access to feasible transportation. Even if they do have transportation, they may not be able to afford it, or tuition itself, for that matter.

I have talked to many of the students about what they do during their summers. It cheered me to hear that, for the most part, they play and have a good time, going to the sea to swim and play soccer with their friends. Some of them, though, work at restaurants or family businesses during the summer vacation, helping out the family and, presumably, learning the rules of the working world. None of the students who spend summers working seemed unhappy about it – on the contrary, they were quite proud of their employment status. It’s great that working gives them a sense of pride, but I worry what would happen if working got in the way of going to school – would students have the necessary bargaining power to refuse jobs for employment? Would they be able to stand up to their parents? Would they have sufficient funds to attend school instead of supply their family with a monthly paycheck? Who knows?

I’m optimistic, though, about their futures. I have seen that they are motivated and passionate children. It seems that many of them really do love to learn new things and I think that curiosity will carry them far in whatever they do. After our fabulous last day and picnic, full of dancing, chatting, tug-of-war, jump rope, and playing, I feel that I learned a new facet of their personalities. For now, it seems, they’re just too busy enjoying being kids to worry about having to choose something to “grow up” and “become” – which, to me, is a very healthy thing.

Sarah jumps high with the children... we had a contest..

my group won.. :)


Sunday, May 13, 2007

luke rides a camel and other adventures...

Firstly, it's worth noting to some that last night Turkey won 4th place in the Eurovision Song Contest (woop-di-woop!) with a glooorious song called "Shake it up, Şekerim" (Shake it up, my sugar!). Pretty catchy tune. Pretty silly + suggestive lyrics. Accented English. An over-sexed video with lots of psychedelic slow-mo. A recipe for international success, indeed. check it out. http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio2/eurovision/2007/contestants/

Second, and certainly more important in a non-shallow kind of way, today witnessed yet another rally against AKP, Turkey's ruling party. The political scene here, as always, is increasingly interesting as the country deals with a "moderate Islamist" government majority, fears losing secularism, and awaits upcoming early parliamentary elections...and the inclusion of popular elections for president into the political scene! (read up: http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/6651461.stm + http://www.turkishdailynews.com.tr/excontent.php?htmlcon=izmirmeeting13may07.htm)

Never a dull moment here in Turkey...

the grand camel-climbing adventure

victorious!!

Speaking of which, it hardly feels like two weeks now since Mom and Luke flew outta here after a glorious ten-day stay. They got to see what life in Alanya's like, and had the distinct pleasure of joining our motley crew on one of our famous field trips. This time we headed over the treacherous Taurus mountains to the ancient late Roman and Byzantine city of Anamur (where they had another distinct and different pleasure of hearing me give a super-fun architectural site presentation) and Byzantine monastery at Alahan, the best preserved in the world! In Alanya, I introduced 2/3 of my real family to 3/4 of my host family, which was quite fun and enjoyable (although we greatly missed the presence of 1/3+1/4!). We shared some bike riding, excellent chats, broken Turkish, rusty French, some yummy food...and some internet cafe gaming, as it were. Perhaps the most memorable, though, of their time in Alanya, was Luke's Camel-riding extravaganza. Luke was prey to Mum and my host dad Cem's orientalist requests (after I flat out refused) of taking a local camel-caretaker up on his ride offerings (even though camels are neither indigenous nor used in Alanya beyond tourist fantasy ride purposes). However, unfortunately for Luke, the camel was "too tired to sit down" and my poor bro got hoisted (pretty much by the bum) up by a man 1/6 his size....a very intricate and drawn out process that all spectators clearly enjoyed much more than actors (sorry, Luke!!). (We've got a sweet video...and if you remind me when you next see me, I might just show it to you for a pretty penny. Don't worry, Luke already showed it to the entirety of my program, of his own initiative...)

at the children's day festival in Alanya with the gang

the byzantine church in Alanya

bike ride! cem + luke

Monday, April 23, 2007

left my heart in... istanbul!

Luke discovers the joy of simit.

I recently had the distinct pleasure of enjoying Istanbul (for a third time - it's always best the third time) with lovely, fabulous visitors!!! Mom and Luke made it out here for some delightful delights, and we ripped it up in the big city before heading to Alanya.
Some highlights include impressing a budding Byzantinist with the amazing mosaics of the Hagia Sofia and St. Savior in Chora (Fetiye Muzesi), walking amongst the incredible tulip blossoms, eating simit and roasted chestnuts in front of the Sultanahmet Cami (Blue Mosque), exploring the public bus system, walking up and down Istiklal St with the hep kats in Taksim Square, constant shouts of "yes, please?" from shop vendors, being hit on in front of (and perhaps alongside) my mother by a half-Spanish, half-Turkish/Kurdish rug salesman named Carlos (he had a talent for making napkin flowers), getting lost in the Egyptian Spice Bazaar, a sunny tour up the banks of the mighty Bosphorus and subsequent castle-climbing adventure (+ delectable sandwiches - "yes please, fish sandwich?"), and, finally, unknowingly eating a dessert that's prepared with chicken (both of us veggies tried it accidentally!).
It was pretty fun to play tour guide... although I think I exhausted my guests. And talked too much.

lukey reads up on the sultanahmet mosque. at the sultanahmet mosque. (proof that you can ask him anything!)

shrubbery in the shape of crescent and star- nationalism at its most decorative.

awed inside the ornate + melodramatic sultanahmet cami (blue mosque)

hagia sofia from the outside. one of us was photo-shy

istanbul in spring = plenty of tulips!

hmm should we be touching these? remains from the 2nd hagia sofia (the current standing is the third edition - both the first and second burned down)

mom loved the iron screen on the hagia sofia's library (from its ottoman days as the aya sofya mosque)

a view from inside the cistern that provided water to the hagia sofia complex in byzantine times.

wandering around near istanbul university.

view from the süleymaniye mosque complex. looking across the golden horn to the north section of the european side.

süleymaniye cami at nightfall.

jet lag is rough in the am. (@ hotel turkish breakfast)

pre-wandering geography lesson at the hotel.

ferry ride along the bosphorus, the strait that separates europe from asia and connects the black sea (to the north) to the sea of marmara (which leads, through the dardanelles, to the aegean sea and then to the mediterranean!). (these incredible houses are in bebek, a fancy shmancy old istanbul suburb)

i thought this mosque was pretty rad. looks like someone stuck two minarets on a box-basilica.

"yes please, fish sandwich?" (anadolu kavağı)

luke giving the camera some sass at yoros castle, our rad bosphorus tour destination.

we made it to the castle! (yoros castle)

another make-shift group shot, with the kale.

chillin'

huggin'

climbin' the walls

real group shot at yoros castle, overlooking the bosphorus!

egyptian spice bazaar, by which i mean stampede.

remarking upon the architectural grandeur of st savior in chora. (Edirnekapı)

this is what we were looking at. (st. savior in chora)

a fresco on the ceiling of st. savior in chora's funerary wing, depicting the judgement of souls (the red on the bottom right is the river of damned souls to hell... the living grovel on the right)- christ at the center, surrounded by mary + john the baptist + a cadre of important halo-clad judges. this scene was meant to depict the benefactor of the church's (theodore metochites') own judgement after death...for some reason, i'm not convinced that he expected to get into the kingdom of heaven.

apparently, spongebob sells sugar cubes in turkey

mmmmmm, turkkahve! (she later spilled out all the grinds to get her fortune...i don't think our waiter enjoyed the gooey mess.)

crazily enough, mom said this door resembles the one on her grandmother's old house in boston (un-dilapidated, of course). weird part? she was also #56. (Edirnekapı)

okay, i'm ready to move in here. please note and enjoy the general bodaciousness. and the poster on the door.

make-shift three person shot by the land walls

no idea. attribute it to our silliness. but check out the reconstructed land-wall tower, complete with turkish flag in the background. istanbul's "world heritage site" status is actually in jeopardy because of its many poor disneyworld-esque reconstructions that don't abide by the UNESCO rules..

he's so handsome! (
topkapı palace, the seat of the ottoman empire for centuries. looking over the bosphorus.)

luke spent a long time in the armor/weaponry room. (
topkapı)

awww. standing by one of the libraries in the third courtyard of the palace. (
topkapı)

sultan luke and sultana hazel, ruling over the fountain. (
topkapı palace)

this is me in the circumcision room, source of pain for many an ottoman prince.

mom n' luke pose at topkapı palace.

...and off to Alanya we went!