Tuesday, July 01, 2008

culinary qualms...

this would be nice for breakfast!!

Okey, here's a secret: I haven't been eating very well here so far...
Now, I'm not sure whether it's that Moroccan food doesn't appeal to me (probably not this option, since I can't even claim to have chipped the iceberg of "Moroccan cuisine"), that it's harder to avoid meat here, or that the campus just doesn't provide a wide range of offerings (I'm 99% confident in this explanation), but I have been essentially subsisting on breads, coffee, tea, sweet yogurt drinks, stews with unidentifiable mish-mashes of vegetables and potatoes, missbon coffee & cream chocolate-filled bonbons (yum!), and the occasional salad with vaguely familiar fixin's (think iceberg lettuce, shredded beats, carrots, and cabbage, halved boiled eggs, sometimes cucumbers and a few slices of tomatoes, and sometimes something mustardy and pleasant whose name I don't know). So, yes Mom, feeling pretty low on the proteins... (but I'm taking my vitamins!)

Two staples thus far have been m'semmen - a greasy, flat crepe-like concoction which has its savory and sweet varieties. Savory (with sauteed peppers, onions, and tomato) is my favorite, although the gooey, honey-dripping m'semmen is also quite the tasty occasional treat. And the second is an avocado, almond, and yogurt drink that's sold in cute little single-serving cartons. It doesn't taste too much like avocado (which is fine by me because, while fresh avocados are one of my absolute faves, I'm still kind of scarred from experiencing [and then re-experiencing] them + dates in smoothie form a year and a half ago in Marrakesh), but it's yummy. And one of the less processed snacks I've been able to find thus far. Mmm, also the peaches have been remarkably good. When they're around.


Bottled water is all the rage for us microbe-free immune weaklings, and I must admit I'm pretty satisfied with "Sidi Ali," the most popular water brand. I'm no water snob - my enjoyment has little to do with the water's taste - I just really like the name. It's just a generic dude's name "Mr. Ali" or "Ali sir"... it would be like if there was a really unpretentious brand of water in the States called "Mr. Smith" or "Mr. Jones" with an unassuming lil' blue and green label.
I'm tempted to go for the tap, to immerse my system and immunize.... buuuut I probably shouldn't. My body has done pretty darn well with the adjustments thus far I think (It even can do the salad here, thank goodness! All those years of organics have served me well), and pushing it might cause some - err - unpleasantries...

al-manzara min Ifrane

(on the road from fez to ifrane)

Here goes, first post in a long while... must admit, it's a little intimidating! BUT I'm on the road again and sharing is caring, right? sooo...Yallah!

lilac-lined walkway on campus

So the campus... feels more like a ski resort than a university, but ma'alish, it's pretty (albeit really out of place).

One thing's for sure - this is summer school. It's the end of a long night of reading, hunkering down with a dark chocolate dove bar (thanks, Andrew) and a heck of a lot of early Muslim religio-political history. We all felt a little bit tricked, I think, after comprehending the course load after our first day of classes. They're really squeezing a whole semester into these four weeks. In. tense. I'm pretty exhausted, but happy to be here, to be living here in Morocco....a place I spent so much of my high school and early college years dreaming about. Although being here makes me feel more like studying Arabic literature and language + Moroccan cultural geography than politics, development, and democracy. It all meshes together, though and, as always, I make what I want of it. I expect that my classmates in "Development in Theory and Practice" will tire of my cynical, contrarian commentary pretty soon, though. Yes, the development field has its issues. And I can't help but point them out. But I also love the debate that ensues, which to me is essentially the whole point.

Spent some time getting lost downtown (off-campus) yesterday, looking for the souq/marche. Must have stopped about seven people for directions, all to not much avail (well, mainly since they all insistently responded to my Arabic pleas for help in French - it seems that people automatically assume that, if your Moroccan Arabic isn't flawless, you'll be more likely to comprehend francais...unfortunately for me... but when I'm insistent, most humor me with Arabic.), but they were all really kind. And eventually we found the souq - a medium-sized, winding market, half covered, half open-air - and accidentally strolled down the butcher's section on our way to the telephone shop. After chatting with Fatima, the nice woman who sold me my SIM card, my friend and I plopped down at an outdoor cafe nearby with some homework. We sipped tea and read alongside lots of middle aged men who, actually, seemed pretty used to random, foreign student-types (both of us women), and paid us no mind. Then it was a quick taxi back up to campus. I have had really good luck with taxi drivers in town - all have been willing to help me practice my newly developing Moroccan Arabic with meaningless banter (this one , after inquiring after my heritage, spent most of the time talking about how Rome is a rip-off and Morocco is heaven in financial comparison) and none have tried to rip me off (Turkish taxicis should take lessons from the drivers of Ifrane!)! Woohoo! I'll post a transcript of the funniest of my taxi adventures some day - the conversations are generally worth sharing...

"it is forbidden to stop in front of the wall"

Looking forward to spending Wednesday in Fez and this weekend's trip to the Tafilalt Oasis! Better photos to come! (Must force myself to take some. Have been in a photo lull lately..)


one of my roommates (my hand for scale)

another one

Tuesday, June 26, 2007

full-circle or something like it.


so i guess that, since i started with a road trip, it'd be fitting to end with one, too. which is exactly what i did. last week.
a quick one, yes, but certainly high-end quality. it was incredible seeing friends i hadn't seen in a long time (some in over two years!) and, although it felt a bit odd to be sleeping on the sofa in my own apartment, being back in dc felt a bit like being home again. as close to "my city" as ever, i suppose.

some funny tidbits about being back in the us...
-upon arrival, i became one of those traveller loonies so excited to be re-immersed in her native language that i initiated plenty of absurd and unnecessary conversations with total strangers, just because i could really speak again!
-for the first week or so, i kept reaching for the toilet-side trash bin for my t.p. !!
-not knowing what the heck is in most of my food (not funny, really - a fact of life here and something i, clearly, don't enjoy!)
-PRICES!! i, painfully, have become even cheaper than i was upon leaving for turkey. low lira prices spoiled me, i guess... fall-time city-living might just give me a stroke.
-apparently, when reunited with fellow alanya amazons, ALL i can talk about is turkey. pathetic, really. (sorry friends i excluded..)

home now..


Restless

I can hear in your voice
you were born in one country

and will die in another,

and where you live is where you'll be buried,

and when you dream it's where you were born,


and the moon never hangs in both skies

on the same night,


and that's why you think the moon has a sister,
that's why your day is hostage to your nights,


and that's why you can't sleep except by forgetting,
you can't love except by remembering.


And that's why you're divided: yes and no.
I want to die. I want to live.
Never go away. Leave me alone.

I can hear by what you say
your first words must have been mother and father.

Even before your own name, mother.
Long before
amen, father.

And you put one word in your left shoe,

one in your right, and you go walking.

And when you lie down you tuck them

under your pillow, where they give rise
to other words:
childhood, fate, and rescue.
Heaven, wine, return.

And even
god and death are offspring.
Even world is begotten, even summer
a descendant. And the apple tree. Look and see

the entire lineage alive

in every leaf and branching
decision, snug inside each fast bud,


together in the flower, and again

in the pulp, mingling in the fragrance
of the first mouthful and the last.

I can tell by your silence you've seen the petals

immense in their vanishing.


Flying, they build your only dwelling.

Falling, they sow shadows at your feet.


And when you close your eyes

you can hear the ancient fountains

from which they derive,


rock and water ceaselessly declaring

the laws of coming and going.

(by li-young lee)

Monday, June 04, 2007

solo in cyprus






for explanations, musings, and such go here: http://georgetown.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2067053&l=befd5&id=1405730

Saturday, June 02, 2007

party in the bahçe!

prof. love to dr. kay and scott bey! downtown alanya twinkles behind us as we party in the bahçe...

So for our final goodbye to the Alanya community, we hosted a garden party at the center. The garden, described by Scott Bey as "too much of an old people's garden" proved quite a fabulous, beautiful, and relaxing dinner party venue! We invited our host families and friends from the community, ate, drank, and chatted the night away. A lovely way to sum things up. The photos are pretty cute ...

this night coincided with the night of a biiig soccer match - fener bahçe versus galata saray... and sarah and s.b. happened to be wearing the f.b.'s colors. what a duo.

cem + emine - my host parents and wonderfully kind and fabulous friends

whitney, leslie, and sabahat, looking lovely!


everybody squish together for a group shot! the night was full of oddly-shaped configurations of us in slanted and uneven photographic evidence (what a fully stocked bar will do to an otherwise innocent function...).

Thursday, May 24, 2007

Saying goodbye...and wondering about the future.

The whole gang at our picnic
Last week, we had a wonderful "final class" party with our English students at one of their houses. It was incredible - their Moms had sent in all the best Turkish mezzes and sweets, which we ate outside on the patio overlooking the orange fields, proceeded to jump rope and dance.. We even were given a "hip hop" show from some of the kids, to songs, of course, that (if they understood the lyrics) they shouldn't have been listening to. Saying goodbye, hugging each of them, and realizing the 99% chance that I'll never see any of them again makes me think about where their lives will take them.

Check out this spread! All the kids' Moms sent in a little something. Which required lots of taste-testing different grapeleaves.

I haven’t spoken directly with our students about their hopes for the future. This seems surprising, as I remember constant chatter about “growing up” in elementary school; everyone had “the thing” they wanted to “be.” Even those of us who didn’t know just latched onto one of our friends’ dreams so that we could answer the ill phrased and often asked question, “What do you want to be when you grow up?” A pediatrician, a veterinarian, a marine biologist. Maybe it’s the language barrier, but the children at Kestel don’t seem to talk about future professions.


The teachers posing with our generous hostess

It seems that in their society, intensified by the fact that they come from comparatively low-income backgrounds, there isn’t much potential for them to track the path of their own lives. It’s compulsory that Turkish children attend school through eighth grade – I can only hope that they all will. After, if they choose to go on, they meet the ugly face of the countrywide high school examination. The results of the single exam tell them which high school they are eligible to attend, if they made it into a top school, and whether they earned a funds that would, most likely, enable them to go. If they end up able to attend, in tenth grade they choose one of four “tracks” that will decide their future professions. They choose between “Turkish-Math” (for International Relations, Law, Education, Psychology, Economy, Business Management professions), “Science” (for Engineering, Computer Science, Medicine, and others), “Social Sciences” (History, Geography, and Education), “Sports,” “Fine Arts,” and finally, “Languages.” This structure assumes that, in the tenth grade, at the age of sixteen, a student knows the profession she wants to spend her adolescent life preparing for (look at the Yükseköğretim Kurulu Başkanlığı website for more info).

After high school, if she so chooses, the student takes her High School Finishing Exam, which determines the subjects she can study at particular universities. To an outsider, it’s a strict system of tests and tracks that boxes kids, based on their perceived ability, into “appropriate” professions.

I have talked with students in the midst of preparing for the eighth grade exam who think it’s a pain. They study incessantly for months beforehand and then, finally, everything rides on one day. My host mother, whose son currently takes Saturday classes and tutoring in preparation for the big day, expressed her concerns to me. What if her son feels ill that day? What if he does poorly on the test because he didn’t sleep well and has a headache? The structure doesn’t seem to give students opportunities to prove or redeem themselves. I worry that our students at Kestel will fall into similar traps, to never again get the chance to continue their education.

Through working with them, I have seen that they are extremely bright and motivated students who I can imagine going on to high school and college. I can already envision some of them in high-powered professions – excelling and succeeding in their respective fields. I worry, though, that they may not be granted the chance to get there.

The girls pose for the camera


Besides the system itself, our students are struggling against their socio-economic status. Depending on their family situations and backgrounds, many potential scenarios can stand in the way of staying in school. Their family may need them, once they reach a potentially older working age, to help out in the family business or shop. They may want to attend high school, but not have access to feasible transportation. Even if they do have transportation, they may not be able to afford it, or tuition itself, for that matter.

I have talked to many of the students about what they do during their summers. It cheered me to hear that, for the most part, they play and have a good time, going to the sea to swim and play soccer with their friends. Some of them, though, work at restaurants or family businesses during the summer vacation, helping out the family and, presumably, learning the rules of the working world. None of the students who spend summers working seemed unhappy about it – on the contrary, they were quite proud of their employment status. It’s great that working gives them a sense of pride, but I worry what would happen if working got in the way of going to school – would students have the necessary bargaining power to refuse jobs for employment? Would they be able to stand up to their parents? Would they have sufficient funds to attend school instead of supply their family with a monthly paycheck? Who knows?

I’m optimistic, though, about their futures. I have seen that they are motivated and passionate children. It seems that many of them really do love to learn new things and I think that curiosity will carry them far in whatever they do. After our fabulous last day and picnic, full of dancing, chatting, tug-of-war, jump rope, and playing, I feel that I learned a new facet of their personalities. For now, it seems, they’re just too busy enjoying being kids to worry about having to choose something to “grow up” and “become” – which, to me, is a very healthy thing.

Sarah jumps high with the children... we had a contest..

my group won.. :)


Sunday, May 13, 2007

luke rides a camel and other adventures...

Firstly, it's worth noting to some that last night Turkey won 4th place in the Eurovision Song Contest (woop-di-woop!) with a glooorious song called "Shake it up, Şekerim" (Shake it up, my sugar!). Pretty catchy tune. Pretty silly + suggestive lyrics. Accented English. An over-sexed video with lots of psychedelic slow-mo. A recipe for international success, indeed. check it out. http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio2/eurovision/2007/contestants/

Second, and certainly more important in a non-shallow kind of way, today witnessed yet another rally against AKP, Turkey's ruling party. The political scene here, as always, is increasingly interesting as the country deals with a "moderate Islamist" government majority, fears losing secularism, and awaits upcoming early parliamentary elections...and the inclusion of popular elections for president into the political scene! (read up: http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/6651461.stm + http://www.turkishdailynews.com.tr/excontent.php?htmlcon=izmirmeeting13may07.htm)

Never a dull moment here in Turkey...

the grand camel-climbing adventure

victorious!!

Speaking of which, it hardly feels like two weeks now since Mom and Luke flew outta here after a glorious ten-day stay. They got to see what life in Alanya's like, and had the distinct pleasure of joining our motley crew on one of our famous field trips. This time we headed over the treacherous Taurus mountains to the ancient late Roman and Byzantine city of Anamur (where they had another distinct and different pleasure of hearing me give a super-fun architectural site presentation) and Byzantine monastery at Alahan, the best preserved in the world! In Alanya, I introduced 2/3 of my real family to 3/4 of my host family, which was quite fun and enjoyable (although we greatly missed the presence of 1/3+1/4!). We shared some bike riding, excellent chats, broken Turkish, rusty French, some yummy food...and some internet cafe gaming, as it were. Perhaps the most memorable, though, of their time in Alanya, was Luke's Camel-riding extravaganza. Luke was prey to Mum and my host dad Cem's orientalist requests (after I flat out refused) of taking a local camel-caretaker up on his ride offerings (even though camels are neither indigenous nor used in Alanya beyond tourist fantasy ride purposes). However, unfortunately for Luke, the camel was "too tired to sit down" and my poor bro got hoisted (pretty much by the bum) up by a man 1/6 his size....a very intricate and drawn out process that all spectators clearly enjoyed much more than actors (sorry, Luke!!). (We've got a sweet video...and if you remind me when you next see me, I might just show it to you for a pretty penny. Don't worry, Luke already showed it to the entirety of my program, of his own initiative...)

at the children's day festival in Alanya with the gang

the byzantine church in Alanya

bike ride! cem + luke